10 minute read

In this article:

• Why most hair supplements fall short
• What biotin actually does — and does not do
• Hair is more than it appears
• Understanding the hair growth cycle
• Stress: the hidden hair thief
• Iron and ferritin: the postpartum and menstrual link
• Diet, GLP-1 medications and nutrient shortfalls
• Hormones: from testosterone to perimenopause
• Thyroid health and hair loss
• Scalp health and circulation
• Premature greying: what the science says
• Why topicals aren't enough
• What Hair Edition does differently
• How long before you see results?

Most hair supplements follow the same formula. A blend of vitamins and minerals — biotin, zinc, iron, vitamin D, perhaps some vitamin C — packaged with a promising name and a before-and-after on the label. These nutrients are of course important for hair health and the problem is not that they are wrong, however often, they can fall short.

Biotin is almost always the headline ingredient, and its association with hair is not without foundation — it is vitamin B7, it plays a role in keratin production, and its German nickname, vitamin H, literally comes from the words Haar und Haut meaning hair and skin. Zinc contributes to normal hair maintenance and helps regulate the hormonal pathways that influence follicle health. Iron is critical for delivering oxygen to the follicle. Vitamin D supports the hair growth cycle and scalp immune balance. These are all meaningful nutrients, and getting them right matters.

But here is what the evidence actually shows. A 2024 review in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology examined the published literature on biotin and hair outcomes specifically. The highest quality trial — a double-blind placebo-controlled RCT — found no difference in hair growth between the biotin group and the placebo group in people without a documented deficiency.¹ And biotin is not an outlier in this regard. Single-nutrient and narrow-blend supplements consistently underperform in clinical settings because hair loss in women is almost never caused by one thing.

What the standard hair supplement formula does not address — and what Hair Edition was specifically built to go beyond — is the deeper biology. The stress response. The hormonal environment. The gut's role in nutrient absorption. Thyroid function. Scalp circulation. The specific amino acids and plant compounds that influence the hair growth cycle at a structural and metabolic level.

Getting the basics right is the starting point. But to see and feel real results, you need to go considerably deeper than a standard vitamin and mineral blend. Here is what that looks like — and why it makes such a difference.

Hair is more than it appears

Hair is uniquely sensitive to what is happening inside the body. From a physiological perspective, hair growth is not essential for survival. When the body is under strain — whether from stress, illness, hormonal shifts, nutrient shortfalls, medication use, or sustained lifestyle pressure — it will always prioritise vital organs and systems first. As a result, hair growth can be one of the first processes to slow, pause, or change.

This is why Alice Mackintosh, our co-founder and registered clinical nutritionist, has always said that hair is one of the places where internal health visibly shows up — for better and for worse. It is also why many women struggle for years trying different topicals and single-ingredient supplements, without ever addressing the underlying biology.

That is the thinking behind Hair Edition — and why we built it the way we did.

Understanding the hair growth cycle

Hair does not grow continuously. Each strand follows a tightly regulated biological cycle — and disruptions at any stage can affect thickness, density, and shedding.²

Anagen — the growth phase. This is when hair actively grows. Cells in the follicle divide rapidly, producing keratin. The anagen phase lasts 2–7 years and determines how long and thick hair can grow. At any given time, 85–90% of scalp hairs are in anagen. Iron status, thyroid hormones, protein availability, and stress levels all influence how long follicles remain in this phase.

Catagen — the transition phase. A short phase lasting just a few weeks. Growth stops, the follicle shrinks, and the hair detaches from its blood supply.

Telogen — the resting phase. Telogen lasts around three months. Hair remains anchored but no longer grows. Normally around 10–15% of hairs are in telogen at any one time. Stress, illness, childbirth, nutritional deficiencies, or hormonal shifts can push more follicles into this phase prematurely.

Exogen — the shedding phase. This is when the hair strand is released. Shedding around 100 hairs per day is entirely normal. Problems arise when too many follicles shed without enough new growth to replace them.

Why hair loss is often delayed — and feels confusing

One of the most frustrating aspects of hair changes is timing. Excessive shedding often appears 2–4 months after the original trigger, not immediately. This reflects the length of the telogen phase — by the time hair begins to fall, the cause may feel distant or forgotten. Common delayed triggers include pregnancy and childbirth, illness or infection, psychological stress, nutrient depletion, rapid weight loss, and hormonal changes.

This delay also explains why hair regrowth requires patience. Supporting follicles back into anagen takes time — but when the underlying biology is properly addressed, the results are worth the wait.

Stress: the hidden hair thief

Chronic psychological stress is one of the most under-recognised drivers of hair loss. When the body perceives ongoing stress, it prioritises survival systems — diverting energy and nutrients away from non-essential functions like hair growth. Over time, this disrupts the hair growth cycle and pushes follicles prematurely into telogen, a pattern known as telogen effluvium.²

What makes stress-related hair loss particularly confusing is timing. Shedding often appears weeks or even months after the stressful period has passed. By the time hair begins to fall, cortisol levels may have normalised — but the follicle has already received the signal to stop growing.

Another thing to consider is grey hair and stress, because contrary to popular belief, this isn't the one way street many of us fear it to be. A landmark 2021 study mapped changes in pigmentation along individual hair strands over time, revealing a close association between stress and hair greying — and in many cases, re-pigmentation when stress resolved.³ This is great news – as it means that hair may go grey, but can then revert back once the stressful time is over. We also include copper to support healthy hair colour which is a key nutrient for many women.

Given stress and hair health are so intricately linked, Hair Edition includes holy basil (Ocimum sanctum), an adaptogenic herb traditionally revered for supporting resilience to stress. In a double-blind placebo-controlled trial, participants experienced a 39% reduction in stress symptoms after eight weeks.⁴ Whilst more research is needed on holy basil and hair health itself, this incredible Ayurvedic herb has been included within the blend to support this important and often under-served aspect to hair health.

Iron and ferritin: the postpartum and menstrual link

Iron deficiency is one of the most common contributors to hair loss in women — particularly after childbirth, during heavy menstrual cycles, or following prolonged dietary restriction. Hair shedding often follows months later once depleted iron levels begin to affect follicular oxygen delivery.

Hair follicles are among the most rapidly dividing cells in the body and are especially sensitive to reductions in iron availability. Low ferritin levels — a marker of iron storage — are associated with chronic hair shedding, even when haemoglobin appears normal.⁵ Ferritin in the low-normal range is commonly seen in women experiencing shedding, and some clinicians aim for levels around ≥60 ng/mL when supporting regrowth.⁶

It is worth noting that in the UK, ferritin levels as low as 15 ng/mL are often classed as normal — meaning depletion may not always be flagged on routine blood tests. If you are experiencing ongoing shedding and have had a normal blood result, it is worth asking your GP for your specific ferritin number rather than just a pass or fail.

Hair Edition includes iron bisglycinate — a gentle, highly bioavailable form — paired with L-lysine, an essential amino acid shown to enhance iron absorption and support keratin structure.⁵

Diet, GLP-1 medications and nutrient shortfalls

Hair growth is metabolically expensive. During periods of calorie restriction, illness, appetite loss, or with the rise in GLP-1 medication use (including semaglutides such as Ozempic and Mounjaro), the body may deprioritise hair growth to conserve resources. This can result in increased shedding, gradual thinning, and hair that feels weaker or more brittle. This is a huge subject at the moment with the dawn of these medications, with many women finding it to be one of the more problematic side effects they experience.

Hair Edition helps bridge these nutritional gaps with key nutrients including iron, zinc, and vitamin D, alongside MSM (methylsulfonylmethane) — which provides a bioavailable source of sulphur essential for keratin strength and resilience.⁷ NAC (N-acetyl cysteine) supports glutathione production and antioxidant defence, while L-lysine supports protein synthesis and iron absorption.⁸

Hormones: from testosterone to perimenopause

Hormonal balance plays a central role in hair density, growth rate, and thickness. Periods of hormonal fluctuation — including pregnancy, postpartum recovery, perimenopause, and conditions such as PCOS — are commonly associated with changes in hair growth patterns.

A key hormone to be aware of is dihydrotestosterone (DHT). In genetically susceptible individuals, elevated DHT can cause follicle miniaturisation, shorten the growth phase, and lead to progressively finer strands. A visibly receding hairline or thinning at the crown can be signs of this process, which often becomes more pronounced with age.

Hair Edition includes zinc, which supports hormone metabolism and helps regulate the enzyme responsible for converting testosterone into DHT⁹ — supporting this process in a gentle and targeted way. Nettle extract works alongside zinc, offering mild anti-androgenic support,¹⁰ while also contributing to the detoxification pathways involved in hormone clearance.

It is worth noting that if DHT-driven hair loss is not your particular issue, these ingredients will not have any negative effect. Zinc and nettle are broad-spectrum nutrients with well-established roles in immune function, antioxidant defence, and general hormonal health — benefits that are relevant regardless of the specific cause of hair changes. Think of them as foundational support that work in the background, whether DHT is part of your picture or not.

Thyroid health and hair loss

The thyroid gland regulates metabolic activity throughout the body — including follicular turnover, scalp circulation, and hair texture. Both under- and over-active thyroid states can lead to diffuse thinning, increased shedding, dryness, or premature greying. This is also worth considering if you are experiencing hair changes alongside fatigue, weight shifts, or changes in temperature tolerance — symptoms that often go uninvestigated or are attributed to stress or busy modern life rather than thyroid function.

What most standard hair supplements do not account for is thyroid support. It is rarely on the label, and yet the thyroid is one of the systems most directly connected to hair health. You do not need a diagnosed thyroid condition for this to be relevant. Subclinical thyroid dysfunction — where levels sit within the technically normal range but are not optimal — is far more common than most people realise, and can have a meaningful impact on hair quality, density, and growth rate. One of the most overlooked contributors to suboptimal thyroid function is iodine deficiency, which is increasingly common in UK women, particularly those who avoid dairy or do not use iodised salt.

Hair Edition gives gentle but targeted attention to this. Iodine from kelp contributes to normal thyroid hormone production — addressing a nutritional gap that most hair supplements ignore. Iron and zinc act as essential cofactors in the conversion of inactive T4 into active T3, the form the body can actually use, while vitamin D3 supports immune regulation and healthy hair follicle cycling.¹¹ Together, these nutrients support the thyroid environment safely — not as a treatment for thyroid disease, but as the kind of foundational nutritional support that allows the thyroid to do its job properly in a woman's body.

Scalp health and circulation: where growth begins

Hair growth may be regulated internally, but the scalp environment plays a critical supporting role. Adequate blood flow is required to deliver oxygen, nutrients, and hormonal signals to the follicle.

Hair Edition supports scalp health from within through nettle, which helps support microcirculation and reduce inflammation, and silica from bamboo, which contributes to connective tissue integrity. Vitamin D3 plays a key role in skin barrier function and immune balance¹¹ — together helping to create the optimal scalp conditions in which follicles can function effectively.

Premature greying: what the science says

Hair colour depends on melanin production during the growth phase. Grey hair occurs when melanocyte activity declines — not because a new pigment appears, but because pigment production stops altogether.¹²

Greying is influenced by oxidative stress, micronutrient deficiencies, mitochondrial function, and thyroid balance. Hair Edition includes copper, which contributes to normal hair pigmentation, and zinc, which supports antioxidant defence — helping to protect the processes that keep colour going for longer.

Why topicals aren't enough

Shampoos and serums can support scalp comfort and improve surface condition, but hair fibres are formed deep within the follicle. Without addressing the internal drivers — nutrient status, stress hormones, thyroid function, and hormonal balance — topical solutions can only go so far.

That is not a criticism of good haircare but an acknowledgement that external products and internal nutrition play different roles. Hair Edition is designed to complement topical care by supporting the internal systems — helping to create the conditions needed for stronger, healthier hair growth from the inside.

What Hair Edition does differently

Most hair supplements pick one angle — usually biotin, or collagen, or a single botanical — and build around it. Hair Edition was formulated around the clinical reality that hair changes in women are almost never caused by a single thing.

By addressing stress regulation, iron and ferritin status, hormonal balance, thyroid support, scalp circulation, and structural keratin production simultaneously — and doing so with ingredients chosen in their most bioavailable forms, at doses that make a difference — Hair Edition offers a level of support that single-ingredient products cannot replicate.

How long before you see results?

Because hair growth is slow and cyclical, most people notice early improvements after 8–12 weeks, with more visible changes over 3–6 months of consistent use.

Weeks 4–8: Reduced shedding and improved scalp comfort

Months 3–4: Improved strength, texture, and shine

Months 4–6: Visible regrowth, with hair that feels thicker, glossier, and more resilient

Consistency is key. Supporting the hair growth cycle takes time — but when you address the underlying biology, the results speak for themselves.

Shop Hair Edition at equilondon.com or take the quiz to find the right formula for you HERE.

This article is for educational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Food supplements should not be used as a substitute for a varied, balanced diet or healthy lifestyle. Hair Edition is not suitable during pregnancy or breastfeeding. If you are under medical supervision or taking medication, please consult your GP or healthcare professional before use.

References

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2. Natarelli N, Gahoonia N, Sivamani RK. Integrative and mechanistic approach to the hair growth cycle and hair loss. J Clin Med. 2023;12(3):893.
3. Picard M, et al. Quantitative mapping of human hair greying and reversal in relation to life stress. eLife. 2021;10:e67437.
4. Lopresti AL, Smith SJ, Metse AP, Drummond PD. A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial investigating the effects of Ocimum tenuiflorum (Holy Basil) extract on stress, mood, and sleep. Front Nutr. 2022;9:965130.
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9. Kil MS, et al. Analysis of serum zinc and copper concentrations in hair loss. Ann Dermatol. 2013;25(4):405–409.
10. Chrubasik JE, Roufogalis BD, Wagner H, Chrubasik S. A comprehensive review on the stinging nettle effect and efficacy profiles. Phytomedicine. 2007;14(7–8):568–579.
11. Plonka PM, et al. The role of vitamin D in hair disorders and hair follicle cycling. Int J Mol Sci. 2020;21(2):566.
12. Paus R, Sevilla A, Grichnik JM. Human hair graying revisited: principles, misconceptions, and key research frontiers. J Invest Dermatol. 2024;144(3):474–491.